In the interest of giving those of you who starts the new marine aquarium hobby a place, I wrote this FAQ of sorts. I'm tired some of the fundamental questions that most people encounter when setting up their first aquarium SW response. This is not a complete list and there are many ways to a tank. This will only serve as a starting point - to help you begin to ask the right questions and get your feet wet. Well, maybe your hands .... ok, ok ... Light up yourShoulders. Let's begin!
Question: What basic equipment and other items I need to start a marine aquarium?
Answer:
1.The 'tank: Contrary to what one might think, from a small tank is not the best option. In fact, the bigger the better. You see, a larger volume of water is less likely to be affected by sudden changes of water are common in the tank a beginner. Think of it this way: if you drink a cup of water and a liter of water and addA drop of blue food coloring to each, which is going to be the biggest change color? Exactly, the cup. Now imagine a fish die in the tub, while you are working. When the fish falls apart, produces toxic ammonia. The smaller the volume of water, more ammonia will be compromised in other aquarium inhabitants. In short, a larger tank is more lenient. A good size to start is 55 gallons or larger.
According to Water: If you had never foul-tasting tap water,You know that not all water is created equal. Tap water, a variety of chemicals, minerals and other impurities that do not contribute to contain reef. Tap water can contain chlorine and chloramines and possibly nitrates and phosphates. So, what kind of water you want to use. There are many options, the most common of which is water purified by reverse osmosis (RO water). In the interest of the guide, this simple and not always have my head, let's just sayReverse osmosis water supplies purist. RO water will find at most any supermarket - just check the label. If Wal-Mart is green with his cap and runs less than sixty cents per gallon at the time of writing. There is also the home guard units ro reef generally accessible, if you want to clean your water.
Third Filtering: This can be a real Pandora's box. There are many different ways and many, many different theories on how best toFiltration for a reef aquarium. The most common and accepted is the use of live rock (LR) and a deep sand bed with a skimmer. Live rock is a simple way of saying, porous carbonate rocks host-based, macro-and micro-organisms. Because of the highly porous nature of the LR, can support large amounts of data, both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. Be sure to use that rock leech minerals in water.
Live Rock is the organizer of both aerobic nitrifying bacteria,living on the rock surface, and denitrifying anaerobic bacteria that live in denser pores deep within the LR. As LR, Sand offers a good home for both types of bacteria. (See the section on the nitrogen cycle for more information about this topic).
LR to offer enough to be an effective biological filter, you want to have the water between 1.5 and 2 pounds live rock per gallon. So in a 55 gallon tank, 82.5 to 110 lbs you would like to live by somewhere betweenrock.
A Deep Sand Bed (DSB) is generally low in fifty-three inches and offers plenty of surface for beneficial bacteria. The area is home to the Nitrosomonas and the deeper, less oxygenated level, is home to Nitrobacter.
Now you can say, but there is a way to remove the waste to fish before the collapse begins, and becomes a problem at the microscopic level. Guess what ', you're right!
The skimmer is the means by which theFish waste, excess food and other proteins are removed from the water. These combinations of organic waste and are often uncertain or DOC is called. There are several types of protein skimmers and each has its advantages and disadvantages, but all have one thing in common to remove - with bubbles of foam waste water. The Skimmer vary in style, creates the bubbles, but the basic operation is this: air bubbles in the skimmer produces, the smaller the better,DOC staff and for the bubbles and place in a collection that can be periodically emptied cup. The waste is in the collection cup skim. The effectiveness of the skimmer is determined by its ability to produce skim evaluated. But it is biological filtration, no matter how effective a skimmer is still required.
This only affects the base of the filtration. Read as much information as possible on this subject can be found. The better you understand how this process works, the more successfulYou.
Fourth Lights: The type of lighting that depend directly on what keep them in your tank. If you keep only one fish (FOR) tank, so you need only standard fluorescent lamps. If you want to keep corals and anemones, you will need a stronger light. The rule of thumb is 3-5 watts per gallon - as advances in technology of this rule is always accurate. Many factors, such as the type of lighting, depth ofTank, and the location of corals will be important as well.
You have many options to choose from, but most are a combination of three technologies: Compact Power (PC), very high output (VHO) or metal halide (MH).
Power compression allows you to hold a variety of corals, including all soft corals, and a limited selection of hard corals - usually Stonies large polyps (LPS).
VHO, the lights may not be as intense as PCs, are offered at higher levels and by themselvesa similar range of corals, to retain them. However VHO are often used in combination with metal halide.
metal halide lamps offer the widest selection of options allows the guardian reef lighting requirements of even the most demanding corals to attend Stonies including small polyps (PLC). The disadvantage of MH lighting is the relatively high cost and intense heat that they put out. Special provisions to ensure cooling to maintain the water temperature when you are considered MH lighting. In aMinimum, you need one or more of the lamps and cooling fans have water. Another expensive option is the use of a cooling radiator.
Another less common option that is gaining in popularity is the use of T-5 lighting. T-5 fluorescent lamps are a type of high-power (HO), but a smaller diameter and greater intensity than other types of fluorescent lamps. Supporters say, T-5 is one day replace MH, but others argue that they do not have the ability topenetrate so deeply and should not be used deeper than 18 "only for surface swimming.
As mentioned, these are generalizations. Many pet owners are successful reef keeping all species of marine animals have with each of these types of lighting.
Fifth Movement: The objective of each holder barrier should be to replicate the natural conditions of the sea as possible. This gives you the best chance to create a welcoming environment for your fish, corals and invertebrates. Trafficis usually the power heads, drawing the smaller water pump, water, and then set the pump at high pressure are provided. The general rule is ten times the amount of water per hour. If we use our hypothetical 55-gallon tank, that would mean we would be at least 550 GPH flow of water desired. The electric car has to be simulated in order to place during the creation of ocean currents flowing in all parts of the tank and prevent "dead spots". dead spots, areas of the tank with a lowCircuit can, so that the waste water column, where it can decompose and compose increased levels of harmful ammonia.
Question: What are nitrates (nitrogen cycle)?
Answer: As mentioned above, rotten fish produces ammonia. In fact, live fish, production of ammonia as a product of respiration. It 'also the waste produced by fish and rotting food not consumed (DOC). If there is a possibility of a significant amount of ammonia is devastating formay cause the tank inhabitants, and death. This is where the bacterium enters the picture. The bacteria that use ammonia in their own metabolism, they are called Nitrosomonas. Nitrosomonas thrive in a highly oxygenated and ammonia consumed in a process called nitrification. As these bacteria multiply, using ammonia and nitrites to produce as a byproduct. Unfortunately, nitrites are toxic to the marine environment. Fortunately, this is not the end of the cycle andThere are bacteria that also uses nitrites. These bacteria thrive in oxygen poor environments and are called Nitrobacter. Nitrites are consumed in a process called anaerobic (or anoxic) denitrification. The Nitrobacter convert nitrite to nitrate. Nitrates are the end of the line in this process. Nitrates are not harmful to aquatic life of ammonia or nitrites, but not yet approved in any significant quantities. Nitrates are frequent, small changes in water extracted- Typically 10-20% per week. Some people choose to do bigger, changing the water less frequently. There are several other options to reduce nitrates, but this is a topic for another day.
Question: How do I recharge my sites?
Answer: Even after the basic information on equipment and biological processes, you can still run as long on small - things like what can I do to mix water, and how can my tank cycle. We will try to resolve some of theseOther frequently asked questions.
Important: Before adding water to the tank, make sure the tank and stand-level. After a tank is not level can lead to burst your tank!
The next decision you have to take you is if you use sand or crushed coral as substrate (basic course) want. Some people choose a bare bottom tank for aesthetic reasons, but most use one of the two substrates above.
For biological filtration, is a deep sand bed, the most recommendedSubstrate. The sand must be clean Argonite sand. basis of silica sand may be harmful to some sand sifting creatures, you may want to keep. Another option is chosen by many people still crushed coral. Crushed coral is not as effective in bacteria Hosting anoxic as a DSB, but is easily accessible and many people prefer the appearance of sand. After your support, you are ready for water.
As mentioned, you might start with water purified by reverseOsmosis. When filling the tank for the first time, okay to mix water and salt in the tank. Do you have animals in the tank, you want salt water in a bucket or drum-mix and then paste it into the tank. There are rooms of different blends out there, all their fans and critics. No matter what you decide you want salt mixture of 1.022 to 1.025. For most of the salt mixture, approaches the desired salinity of the salt mixture in an amount of½ cup per gallon of water. For the initial configuration does not fill the tank. Remember to replace the water with a large amount of rock. You also want to leave enough space in the tank, adjust the salt content. If your salinity is too high, add more water when RO is too low, add more concentrated salt water easily. Most reef-keeper a simple swing arm hydrometer to measure salinity, but is likely to consider a more accurateDevice as a refractometer. If the water in the tank you want and connect your power heads.
The next step is to add your live rock. live rock there are two ways, cured or uncured. Deleted as a rock live from the sea is full of life. During the subsequent transport, some of these marine life begins to die. The process of curing live rock to allow the decomposition process completely before adding to your tank. Add to your left uncuredTank can cause a spike in ammonia. Normally, a tip is not desirable, but when starting a new tank, you can cycle in the pool - More on "Cycling" immediate help.
You can all live rock, or, if you want to save, you can use 20% live rock and rock-based 80%. Base rock is porous carbonate rocks, or that were not in a reef aquarium or the ocean or been removed, but since then. If you go this route, remember that time to take your basic rock to go homefound on the macro and micro-organisms in the rock genre. After some time, the rock base and live rock are indistinguishable.
As the rock, be sure to add how it's done. You want to ensure that it is stable and not tip over when you add the animals. You hate to see the glass favorite fish crushed by a landslide not to mention - is that many of the larger pieces of rock are quite heavy and are prone to rupture. You can say, Noah's Ark?We hope that you never had a flood! If you are interested mainly by falling rocks, or want to try some interesting underwater landscape, consider other options such as the use of PVC for your band rocks. After the addition of sand and rock, your tank will be cloudy expected strong. At this moment, in any filtering devices, which is used and in a few days, the water should be clear.
Once the live rock in place, will cycle the tank. Cycling is the process by which theThe bacteria are established in your tank. If you add a sufficient amount of live rock, your tank is already essentially gone, but if you add live rock or a small amount, you must help the process. In any case, you need a food source for bacteria - namely ammonia. If you are using rock from left to cycle your tank, you can add a few hardy fish to provide a source of ammonia. People often use the girls for this task, but keep in mind that girls canvery aggressive to other fish and are extremely difficult to remove from a tank with lots of rocks.
If the cycle is not LR, we want to offer an alternative source of ammonia life - there is no reason to kill a risk of good fish in a tank that is ready to support yet. Instead, there may be a bit of fish food for your tank every day, or fall into a raw shrimp. Because the food or shrimp begin to decompose, ammonia begins to be. Rise After a couple of days to start reviewing the levels of ammonia. After about a week, you see a glimpse of ammonia levels and then begins to decline. The decrease of ammonia, ie increasing the level of Nitrosomonas. Once the loss of ammonia, nitrites start the review. How is ammonia, nitrites content for about a week until they start to get on and off PEEK. At this point the Nitrobacter population is increasing. When you see this decline, you should startCheck the levels of nitrate. increase the nitrate content is reached and the peak at about the same levels of nitrite at zero time. Once this is done, you should be aware of the point of three weeks. To lower the high levels of nitrates, it is a massive water change - unloading 50% of you water and replacing it with salt water again. At this point you should start to slowly add animals during the review of your level of nitrate per day. Nitrates should not exceed 40 ppm in a fish tank only or10 ppm in a reef aquarium. If you correct filtration, storage, maintenance, and your nitrate levels should remain very close to zero. In order to maintain a bacterial balance, it is advisable to wait a week or more of the added livestock to your tank.
Question What should I do now (I'm ready to fish) to add?
Answer: Before adding any fish, corals and invertebrates to your tank to be sure to thoroughly research potential of your purchase before taking it home. Younotice that many creatures are not compatible, or there is a very nice fish to discover that it is a voracious eater of corals. Many pet owners find useful cliff, another is a list of compatible fish and corals - those with one living in harmony, are well suited to your tank size, and lighting. Be sure to take the list each time around the local fish shop (LFS), so do not be tempted to make unreasonable a spurTime of purchase. to help start the eighth with more territorial units is in the less aggressive fish last fish can also create territories.
When seeking advice LFS different to be aware of that just because someone works in a pet shop or fish, does not mean they know what they say. This seems particularly for large retail chains. Unfortunately, there are also those that can be made a foolPurchase only way to make the sale.
Although the topic was not mentioned here, I strongly recommend doing some research on setting up a quarantine tank. A quarantine tank is used for your pets new monitor for several weeks to ensure they are disease-free before the main tank. It is much easier for diseases to be treated in a quarantine tank full of corals and other susceptible animals. A final suggestion is that especially in this hobby, patience is aVirtue. "Take your time and make sure you make informed decisions from the outset, this avoids unnecessary loss of livestock and cost savings.
We hope you find this information useful and have a better understanding of what exactly a part in this wonderful hobby.
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